Rising crust: What is behind the culinary revolution of the bread sommelier?

Like a wine sommelier – nowadays, there are also sommeliers for beer, water, coffee, cheese, meat, spices, rice, oil and nuts – the bread sommelier (or ‘pain sommelier’) is an expert in his field, specializing in the art, science and sensory appreciation of bread.

Esteemed in regions like Europe, Asia and the US, the role involves an extensive knowledge of the various aspects of bread, including its history, culture, types, grains, milling, production processes, nutritional value and flavor profiles.

The language of bread

On the face of it, it’s a deep understanding of a bread’s taste, smell and texture, while finding the most apt descriptions to describe these nuances that peak curiosity and stimulate the appetite. Going deeper, like a wine sommelier, the most important part of the role is to master pairings.

Bread sommeliers don’t simply work to understand the classic pairings between bread and other foods and beverages, but to discover new ones by pushing the boundaries of science and trying innovative combinations.

The profession may be relatively new and evolving, however, the concept of specialized expertise in bread dates back centuries. Bakers and master bakers have long held esteemed positions, so it makes sense that a bread sommelier is equally revered.

Japan has been a notable leader in formalizing the role, with the first official certification program developed by the Japan Bakery and Confectionery Association (Nihon Pan Kashi Kyokai) in the early 2000s.

While not all exclusively titled ‘bread sommelier’, several other institutions today offer the essential training and knowledge required for this specialized culinary role, including Le Cordon Bleu Tokyo, Hattori Nutrition College, Osaka Institute of Technology - Department of Culinary Arts, and the Japanese Culinary Academy.

Marrying the art and science of the perfect loaf

Driven by the rise of the artisanal bread movement, European culinary institutions have further solidified the role, with bread-tasting workshops and educational programs designed to promote the profession.

In 2015, the German Baking Academy (Akademie Deutches Bäckerhandwerk [ADB]) developed a program that saw 200 master bakers from Germany, Austria and Italy become certified ‘brotsommeliers’ (only those who successfully pass the examination set by the Chamber of Crafts can use the title or the Bread Sommelier logo for their own advertising purposes).

The almost one-year course comprises eight modules to sharpen the graduate’s sensory skills, learn everything about bread history and culture, customs, breads from all over the world, shelf life and quality factors.

And that’s quite a feat, with 3,200 registered different types of bread in Germany alone and thousands of others reflecting different cultures, regions, ingredients and baking techniques around the globe – think leavened bread (white, sourdough, rye), flatbreads (pita, naan, tortilla), unleavened (matzo, lavash), speciality (ciabatta, pretzel, injera, bannock, steamed buns) sweet breads (panettone, challah) and more modern offerings like gluten-free, keto and paleo breads.

It's no wonder artisanal bakeries and high-end restaurants are fast catching on to the benefits of having a bread sommelier to enhance their offerings.

Last year, the ADB introduced an English-speaking course, with two longer face-to-face modules to better support bakers traveling from other countries, along with practical project work, online modules (including learning how to use the innovative Weinheim Bread Language to describe your bread with the same knowledge and status as a wine expert describes their wine) and exams.

According to academy director Bernd Kütscher, the program is transforming the bread industry, noting that bread sommeliers act as “ambassadors for bread”, organizing tasting events, appearing in the media, judging TV baking competitions and amassing hundreds of thousands of followers on social media.

'Baking rocks'

Like Axel Schmitt, a master baker from Frankenwinheim who was recognized as the World Baker of the Year 2022 and is one of the first certified bread sommeliers.

Also known as ‘Axel der Brotsommelier’, Schmitt has made significant contributions to the field and has become a prominent figure in the world of artisan bread. Earlier this year, he developed range of handmade breads – made from natural ingredients, baked fresh daily and served with handmade butter and high-quality olive oil as an appetizer – exclusively for guests on Lufthansa flights.

Schmitt believes in the importance of using high-quality ingredients, respecting traditional methods and continuously innovating with modern technology to improve quality. He emphasizes the sensory experience of bread, considering its texture, aroma and flavor profiles.

“As a bread sommelier, I have the incredible opportunity to explore the depths of bread’s sensory experience, from its aroma and texture to its complex flavors,” said Schmitt.

“My role is not just about creating high-quality bread but also about educating others on the rich history and cultural significance of this staple. It’s immensely rewarding to pair our breads with various foods, pushing culinary boundaries and enhancing dining experiences. Ultimately, being a bread sommelier allows me to be an ambassador for the art and science of bread, sharing my passion and knowledge with the world.”